STAGE 11

Return to the BUILD


“In this issue, we will continue with the assembly of the engine block by attaching parts including the crank case ventilation, compressor, fuel rail and injector ramp. You can use tweezers to fit small parts.”

 

Contents


Parts

Materials: All of these parts are plastic.

Tools

  • Tweezers

Magazine

  • Nissan Skyline GT-R: Electronically Controlled Torque-Split 4WD
  • Fast & Furious Tales: The “Verone Test”
  • The NISMO Story: The All Japan Championship Rally Series (Part 2: Success With the Fairlady Z)
  • Nissan Sport DNA Collection: Sleek New Body for the Redesigned Bluebird
  • Assembly Guide: Model Instructions

Build


Injection System

While looking through the parts of this stage, I felt the Crank Case Ventilation Tube (11C) and Crank Case Ventilation Intake Connection (11F) should not be silver. On most real RB26DETT engines, these parts were actually rubber hoses. Therefore, I decided to airbrush them both with Tamiya XF-85 Rubber Black acrylic paint. To also give the Tube the appearance of hose clamps, I first masked off the raised rims at both ends:

While the paint was still damp, I removed the tape to reveal the original silver color – I feel it gets the idea across:

With the Intake Connection, I simply airbrushed the entire part:

Fuel Rail
Step 11.01

Retrieve your Engine assembly from the previous stage. Press the six holes of the Fuel Rail onto the matching pins of the Intake Manifold 1.

This Fuel Rail could accidentally be installed upside down. Note these longer tabs of the Fuel Rail:

These should be at the top when the Rail is fitted onto the matching pins, as shown:

Step 11.02

Carefully cut six (6) Blue Connection Fittings from the sprue, making sure the cut is made at the proper point as shown.

I recommend using sprue cutters or a sharp hobby knife to remove these parts from the sprue. Two spare Fittings are included if needed:

Gently press the wider black ends of these Blue Fittings into these matching holes of the Injector Ramp.

Note the two large pins of the Injector Ramp are pointing up and are closer to the left end of it – this will ensure the Blue Fittings go into the right holes:

When inserting these Blue Fittings, make sure the free ends of them are angled away from the Ramp, as shown:

Step 11.03

Carefully cut six (6) Red Connection Fittings from the sprue, making sure the cut is made at the proper point as shown.

Fun Fact: These Fittings are actually the injectors. Typically, in a nitrous-equipped vehicle, the blue injectors are for nitrous and the red ones are for fuel.

Just like the blue ones, two spare red Fittings are included if needed:

Gently press the wider black ends of these Red Fittings into these matching holes on the other side of the Injector Ramp.

For some reason, my Red Fittings were more difficult to insert than the Blue. Therefore, I used my Pin Vise Drill to clean any paint out of these holes:

When inserting these Red Fittings, make sure the free ends of them are angled away from the Ramp (opposing the Blue Fittings), as shown:

Step 11.04

Press the wider straight pin of each Black Connection Fitting into these matching six holes of the Intake Manifold 1.

Note how these Fittings should be oriented when inserting them:

All six Fittings should be facing the same way, as shown:

Step 11.05

Press the two pins of the Injector Ramp assembly into the matching posts of the Intake Manifold 1, as shown:

In the magazine they show small holes in the Injector Ramp for the curved ends of the Black Fittings, but these holes did not exist on my model. It appears that the Fittings should simply just align to the small square pads of the Ramp:

Engine Top Details
Step 11.06

Press the post of the Oil Plug onto the matching pin at this location of the Engine Top Cover, orienting it as shown.

Fun Fact: On the real car, this is actually the oil cap for adding oil to the engine:

Then, press the pin of the Rocker Cover Ornament into the matching hole at this location of the Engine Top Cover, as shown:

Step 11.07

Press the angled pin of the Crank Case Ventilation Connector 1 (marked ‘L’) into this left rear hole of the Engine Top Cover, orienting it as shown:

Likewise, press the angled pin of the Crank Case Ventilation Connector 2 (marked ‘R’) into this right rear hole of the Engine Top Cover, orienting it as shown:

Step 11.08

Press the holes at either end of the Crank Case Ventilation Tube onto the forward-facing pins of the two Crank Case Ventilation Connectors.

Both ends of this Tube are the same, so it can be fitted either way. I feel painting it black was the way to go here:

Then, fit the pin of the Crake Case Ventilation Intake Connection into this matching hole of the Air Inlet Duct 1, and the hole of the Connection onto the matching pin of the Ventilation Connector 1 as shown:

This is how the intake side of our Engine assembly should look like at this point:

AC Compressor and Steering Pump
Step 11.09

Fit the three parts of the air conditioning Compressor together, capturing the Air Conditioning Compressor and Steering Pump Bracket in between as shown.

First, let’s identify the four pieces we need to complete this step:

  • 11K – Air Conditioning Compressor and Steering Pump Bracket
  • 11L – Compressor Rear Part
  • 11M – Compressor Housing
  • 11N – Compressor Front Part

Next, press the pin of the Housing into the post of the Front Part, aligning the tab of the housing to the matching slot in the Front Part as shown:

Then, fit this pin of the Bracket into the rounded tab of the Front Part, orienting it as shown:

Finally, press the pin of the Rear Part into the Housing while at the same time fitting its rounded tab over the other pin of the Bracket, as shown. This Rear Part also has a tab that aligns to a matching slot in the Compressor:

Step 11.10

Gently press the two pins of the Air Conditioning Compressor and Steering Pump Bracket into the matching holes at this location of the Engine Block Left Part, orienting the Compressor as shown:

Step 11.11

Press the two pins of the Steering Pump down into the matching holes of the Bracket, orienting it as shown:

Step 11.12

Secure the Tension Pulley Support to the Engine Block Left Part as shown, using one (1) BM screw.

This is your friendly reminder to try using 3-in-One Oil on all screw threads going into metal:

Step 11.13

Finally, press the two pins of the Camshaft Sensor into the matching holes at this location of the Distributor Cover, orienting it as shown.

I’ve seen this Sensor in both black and silver colors on the real engines, so I left it alone:

Thoughts


Up until this point, I thought my Lamborghini Miura partwork engine was the best looking of all my vehicle builds. However, that title has now been taken over by this beautiful, and complex, work of art!

Next Up


Stage 12 – Front Right Knuckles/Arm, Mounting Bracket, Front Right Driveshaft, Dust Caps, Right Suspension Linkage/Upper Bracket

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