Return to the BUILD
“Now it is time to assemble the Rear Right Suspension of your NISSAN GT-R (R35) and combine it with the parts you assembled earlier.”
- 3mm Phillips-head Screwdriver
- Nut Wrench
Rear Right Suspension Assembly
Insert the Upper Mount into one end of the Coil Spring, and the Stroke into the other end. Rotate the Stroke so that the peg slides up inside the Upper Mount. Set this shock assembly aside until Step 03.
The design of this shock absorber is quite unique. The Stroke has a little tab that slides into a track in the Upper Mount. Once it is far enough along the track, it can be rotated counterclockwise which locks it into the Upper Mount. This picture (without the Coil Spring) may explain better:
And now, with the Coil Spring installed and the Stroke locked in place:
Slot the Upper Join into the Knuckle Base, as shown. Insert one (1) EM screw through the holes and secure it with a nut.
Eaglemoss supplied a tiny wrench with this issue to help hold these nuts while tightening the screws. You will need definitely need it:
This screw/nut can be tightened all the way without affecting the movement:
Slide the shock assembly from earlier into the Knuckle Base, as shown. Insert one (1) EM screw through the holes and secure it with a nut.
I don’t think it matters which way this shock attaches to the knuckle, but this is how the instructions show it:
Slide the Lower Toe Strut Bar (long) into the Knuckle Base, as shown. Fasten with one (1) EM screw and nut.
My Lower Toe Strut Bar (long) was not drilled all the way through on one end. I had to use a 5/64″ drill bit on my Dremel to open it up:
Take care to install these the correct way. They have a slight bend to them and should angle away from the silver Upper Join:
Then, slide the Lower Toe Strut Bar (short) into the Knuckle Base, as shown. Fasten with one (1) EM screw and nut.
And again, a hole that was not drilled all the way. I used the same 5/64″ drill bit on my Dremel to open this up:
UPDATE: I actually put this Lower Toe Strut Bar (short) on backwards, but have since corrected it. See the bottom of this page.
This is what we have built so far.
Place the Lower Sway Bar onto the Knuckle Base, as shown. Secure it with one (1) DM screw, but leave it a little loose.
Make sure this goes on the correct way (there is a tab that faces down) and the bend of the bar should be towards the silver Upper Join. This is also your friendly reminder to try using 3-in-One Oil on all screws going into metal:
Place the Anti Roll Bar onto the Knuckle Base, as shown. Secure it with one (1) DM screw.
This Anti Roll Bar is nothing more than bent wire. The correct orientation will have the end under the screw bending counterclockwise:
Place the Brake Caliper (from Pack 03) onto the Knuckle Base, as shown. Secure with two (2) BM screws.
The BM screws supplied with this pack were a little different than my other BM screws, almost smaller. They didn’t hold this on very well, so I used spare BM screws from previous packs for a more secure attachment:
Place the brake disc assembly (from Pack 03) onto the Knuckle Base, as shown:
Add the wheel assembly from Pack 02 to the Knuckle Base, as shown. Secure with one (1) CM screw. Then, loosely push on the Wheel Cap (also from Pack 02). You will remove this wheel to fit washers at a later stage.
You may want to hold off on attaching the wheel at this point as there are Washers coming with Pack 19 that really help minimize the wheel wobble. Also, I do not install the Wheel Caps until the build is complete as we may need to tighten the wheels as we move the model around during construction. However, I did temporarily install the wheel here just for the picture:
UPDATE: Once I tried to add this assembly to Pack 12, I noticed that I had the Lower Toe Strut Bar (short) backwards:
The instructions are just not very clear here and the two Strut Bars should angle away from each other. I needed to remove the Wheel assembly to switch it around, but it was simple enough:
Everything in this pack is metal, pre-painted, and the Stroke (shock) even has a decal! And, there were a lot of things to assemble. I am now happy to be building this model, but I shouldn’t have to be drilling out parts. Come on, Eaglemoss! Anyways, keep all your spare screws as we will need one of these DM screws in Pack 12.
Pack 05 – Body: Front Daytime Running Lights/Turn Signals/License Plate